Very Hard Decision

[Superbob]

Here is a photo of this ball of energy who steals your heart away. The lab rescue people are going to use these pix to find her a great home.

 

[Wise]

Yeah, she's a cutie. She won't be hard to place. I hope she gets the ideal new home for her.

 

[ALCapshaw2]

Bob -

To ease the transition, if you have the time, it may be good to have the prospective adopter(s) come over to play with the puppy a few times. That way when they take her away, she will know them and it would not be so traumatic.

My puppy had been turned over to Animal Control who took her from her home to the pound, then taken to my vet to be 'fixed', and finally brought to my home. It took her a while to 'adjust' from all that trauma. I'm thinking she just grew way faster than the young children in her first home and was way too strong and energetic (not to mention undisciplined) for them.

I set up a 'crate' (euphemism for Cage) in my garage with some foam insulation under the 'crate' where she stayed through the winter. When it got HOT, she protested and I moved her crate to the bedroom. I just leave the gate open and when she sees it's bedtime, she just goes to her 'safe place' and goes to sleep. She has free reign of the house and has had NO accidents no problems with chewing (after puppyhood). Cow Leg Bones from the butcher, cut up into 1 inch 'rings' kept her teeth clean and prevented destructive chewing.

'AL Capshaw'

 

[Superbob]

Good idea, Al. Fortunately, that is part of what the lab resuce people do -- not only have an application process, but have the prospective new owners over for an introductory visit before all is finalized. That's part of what impressed me with their process.

 

[Dina]

I really understand , Superbob. We have a cat named Misty.
She has the type of hair that defies gravity and floats.
She also has alot of it . With constant maintenance;brushing her daily,
vacuuming the house daily, using all types of lint brushes on everything
from furniture to clothes...it is still EVERYWHERE. And this is only one
cat. I have had many cats and dogs in my life , but nothing compares
to this. My husband is away alot with his work and don't have the energy
required to keep up as I once did--but I try. My husband told me to try
to find her a home. But she is already 9 and not too many people want
older , high maintenance cats, so I told him to forget it . I don't think she
would be happy away from us as she seems to be in love with my husband she follows him from room to room just silently adoring
him. Me..?.. I am just her food supply,groomer and general servant.
But we do have a good rapport , she likes to read or study with me- I had
to put a small 'cat bed' on my desk so she can assist in comfort.
So....what it boils down to (for me) is that I can't get rid of her.
I don't have the same options that you do (with Lab rescue service)
and you can be assured that she will have a good home, and she is
young and hasn't been with you so long that she won't be able to adapt.
For you I think its a good choice,and I know it was not easily come by.
Though I feel in my situation that I must struggle thru this one... I mean,
...my husband and I saved her from the Humane Society as a kitten,how
could I undo the good I did by causing her greater harm in her old age.
I didn't mean to go on about my prob , but I had been thinking about
posting on something similar; like 'being ill or in recovery and taking care
of your pets'. Sorry I rambled. But I do feel that you decision is a good
one as long as she gets a good home and it sounds like you are working
with some good people.
Best Wishes for you all

Here is a pic of my very sweet but fluffy girl--

 

[catwoman]

Bob:
As many others have said, you did the right thing. Our cat rescue program screens potential adopters as best we can, so I'm sure the Lab rescue group does too.

When I was breeding Abyssinian cats, I had to thoroughly screen prospective buyers, since Abys are very high energy, similar to Labs. I asked people about their lifestyle -- are they into sports, or are they couch potatoes, and what are their expectations from a cat. That enabled me to weed out some people who are not the best match with an Aby. Maybe with a Birman, American Shorthair, Perian or some other breed.

I really understand , Superbob. We have a cat named Misty.
She has the type of hair that defies gravity and floats.
She also has alot of it . With constant maintenance;brushing her daily,
vacuuming the house daily, using all types of lint brushes on everything
from furniture to clothes...it is still EVERYWHERE. And this is only one
cat. I have had many cats and dogs in my life , but nothing compares
to this. My husband is away alot with his work and don't have the energy
required to keep up as I once did--but I try. My husband told me to try
to find her a home. But she is already 9 and not too many people want
older , high maintenance cats, so I told him to forget it . I don't think she
would be happy away from us as she seems to be in love with my husband she follows him from room to room just silently adoring
him. Me..?.. I am just her food supply,groomer and general servant.
But we do have a good rapport , she likes to read or study with me- I had
to put a small 'cat bed' on my desk so she can assist in comfort.

Dina:
If she has long hair, get her clipped/shaved down. Don't know how much it costs, because we do it ourselves. We have Oster A5 clippers and use a #10 blade to shave down any longhair cats. I shaved down one rescue Pesian who was so heavily matted that it took 2 hours. Most of the time, though, it only takes about 40 minutes.

Your husband doesn't do the grooming, so Misty equates that with you, and she may not like it 100%.

What you might want to try is giving Misty a "reward" of some baby food after grooming her or, if you decide to attempt it, shaving her. We use Gerber 2nd Foods (TM), either turkey & gravy or chicken & gravy. We keep several jars on hand; it's very useful if an animal turns its nose up at its usual food and you need to determine if the animal is anorexic or just something wrong with the usual food.

 

[Karlynn]

Count me in on the support you've received for doing the best thing for the pup. You've grown attached to her, but you also have the wisdom to recognize that your household is not a puppy/young dog house with all the things you have going on. You are giving her a chance to live the life she'll be happiest with. I'm sure the rescue society will find a great family for her.

 

[ShezaGirlie]

SuperBob...someone is going to thank you immensely for their new family member just as we profusely thank the young couple who gave us our Panda.

Just like you, they were having a difficult time dealing with their pet and decided to do a very unselfish thing -- find him a new home. We were the lucky ones who got him and just love him to pieces.

Thanks to you and your post reminding me of their generosity, I wrote them an e-mail yesterday and sent along this picture of Panda for them. They wrote back that they had just been thinking of him a lot here lately and wondering how he was doing.

Well, Mr. Panda has turned into a royally spoiled and much loved family member. We had the patio screened in so he could go 'outside' and I found a cat "windoor" online and Mike installed it. Now, he comes and goes as he pleases...! He is such a joy and I'm sure Daisy's new family will never forget your love and caring enough to do the right thing..

Here's Panda and that's his new 'windoor' behind him.

 

[hall]

Bob, yes we had to fill out an application and go and meet our golden ret., Sam. They called our vet we used and made sure w/our previous dog that we kept up on shots and met us to make sure we were ok people. Then we got to take Sam. Sam is extremely spoiled and extremely loved! That is how it should be. I am sure the people who adopt your Daisey will keep you up to speed if you'd like. I know I would, but ours was from a foster home and he was a run away. No more run away, we have him chipped. These rescues are very particular. It will be ok, I know it will be hard but that cute puppy will have a loving home as well as the one you gave it. Best of luck to you.

 

[designlady]

Well done Bob!

Well done Bob!

Bob,

Animal lovers everywhere applaud what you're doing. I do American Eskimo dog rescue for Eskie Rescuers United. Rescuers would much rather you surrender a dog than put it in a shelter (where even the best dogs experience shelter stress) or even worse, sitting it out beside the road. All reputable rescues do lots and lots of screening to applicants. We want the dog to go to the perfect situation! Also a rescue has many applications usually nationwide which provides a huge outlet for great adopters! So even though it makes you sad you have made the right decision. Well done!

 

[Superbob]

Thanks so much designlady. What you say is very meaningful given your rescue work, and thank you for that!

And again, I want to thank everyone who responded to this thread. I thought I would get some support, because that's normal on vr.com, but I am overwhelmed at the response -- and very, very grateful.

 

[marie]

Superbob I didn't chime in because I do not have any animals however I do want you to know I think you're doing the right thing.

Your heart is in the right place.

 

[ALCapshaw2]

Here's a Very Interesting piece on how to Walk your Dog

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/articles/dogwalk.htm

Dog Walk

For a dog to be balanced you as an owner must take your dog for daily walks to release mental and physical energy. The proper way to walk a dog is the dog walking either beside you, or behind you, never in front of you. This may seem petty in a human's mind, however it means a lot in a dogs mind. Instinct tells a dog, the leader goes first. A lack of exercise and the mental energy a proper walk releases can cause many behavioral problems in a dog. Getting a dog to walk properly on a lead is not as hard as it may seem, yes, even your dog(s). (You can walk more than one dog properly on a lead.)


When getting ready to walk your dog, call the dog to you, do not go to the dog to put the lead on. After the dog comes to you make him or her sit calmly before snapping on the lead or slipping on the collar. Retractable leashes are not recommended, as they give the handler less control.

Take your dog to the front door and open the door. Make the dog sit quietly, do not allow the dog to bolt out the door. The dog needs to see, you are the one deciding when it's time to leave.


As soon as your dog is sitting quietly at the exit, it's time to leave. Be sure you exit the house before the dog, even if it's just a step before the dog.


The collar should be far up on the neck, giving you more control over the dog. Body harness are not recommended for walking dogs. The hardest goes around the strongest point on the dogs body, making it difficult to control the dog. Keeping the lead high up on the neck the same way they do in dog shows gives you more control with less effort. There should be no tension in the lead. Do not allow the dog to pull and don't constantly pull on your dog. Relax.


The lead should be short and hang loose. If the dog starts to pull snap the lead to the side, throwing him off balance. If the dog starts getting too excited and your not keeping him beside or behind you, stop and make the dog sit. Wait until he is calm, than start again. Do not call to the dog when you start walking again, just start walking. Pack leaders do not call the pack to come with them, the pack instinctually follows. The dog needs to learn he is following you, and tune into the person walking the dog. Do not praise your dog for walking calmly. This only creates excitement and you are more likely to pull your dog out of his calm, submissive mind.


The dog is not to sniff the ground and relieve themselves where they please, they are to concentrate on following their handler while walking. The person walking the dog decides when the dog is allowed to sniff or pee, not the dog. It is ok to allow your dog to sniff around and do his business, however, only when you decide it is ok. The dog needs to see you are leading him, he is not leading you.


If you pass a barking dog or other distraction, keep moving forward. If your dog averts it's attention to the distraction, give a tug on the lead to avert the attention back to the walk at hand. If the tug does not work you can also use your foot, not to kick the dog, but to touch him enough to snap his attention back on you. If you find the dog pulling, stop and make the dog sit. Correct any excited behavior over the distraction, with a tug and or an assertive touch to the neck using your hand as a claw, as soon as you see the dog starting to avert his gaze toward the distraction, or as soon as you see a look in your dog's eyes that tells you he is going to begin barking or growling. Timing is everything. This must be done right before the behavior happens or at the exact moment it starts. You do not want to wait until it escalates. If you wait too long before correcting a dog (were talking seconds), the dog may not even hear you, he will be too focused on the distraction. When correcting your dog, match your dogs intensity.

Walk at a good pace, keeping your shoulders held high. Dogs can sense tension or lack of confidence. Walk proud, like you are a strong leader. A dog will respond to this, they will sense it. Notice how there is no tension on the lead and the collar is up high on the neck. **

I like to have my dog sit when I stop at crosswalks etc... This is not necessary, however, the dog remaining calm is necessary. This dog decides to lay down while his owner stops to talk.


Putting a dog back pack on a dog is one way to make the walk more meaningful by giving the dog a job to do. Throw a couple of water bottles in the pack to add some weight. The dog will get a better workout, and it will also slow him down a bit, making it easier to walk. This is a good idea for some of the more active breeds, who have high energy levels.

If you are going off to work for the day, the dog should be walked before you leave the house. This will put the dog into a rest mode for the time you are gone.* Dogs should also be walked before they eat, fulfilling the dog's instinct to work for food.


Dogs, of all breeds and types, who are taken for daily walks, and who are made to walk beside or behind the owner, are less likely to be destructive, obsessive, have separation anxiety and and or dominancy issues, among many other behavior problems. Dogs with higher energy should be taken for longer more vigorous walks, some two or more times a day. For a dog, walking is a primal instinct. Fulfilling this need in your dog will make for a happier dog and happier owners. *


It only took one day to teach these two 120 pound Great Pyrenees how to walk properly on a lead. Both went from unruly, pulling every which way, to walking right next to the human. A couple of backwards boots in the butt (not a kick, but a bop) and a verbal, one word "Hey" along with a sideways tug at the moment they were thinking about pulling, and the dogs got the message, the human was boss. Lets not forget the all so importance of the calm, assertive confidence of the handler making a huge difference in the success of the walk. The dogs can feel energy and would not have responded to nervous, hyper, scared or tense energy. The rest of the walk went smoothly with neither trying to pass. The dogs enjoyed knowing where they stood, and the human can now take them on more walks, because she is able to control both dogs by herself.

To help you learn to do this, we strongly suggest Cesar Millan DVD's and or Cesar Millan Books to every dog owner, from Chihuahua to Pit Bull. An excellent guide to communicating with, understanding,* and controlling your dog.

========

Go to the above link for pictures depicting each major point.

 

[Nancy]

I read the article about walking your dog, and discovered that I have done every single thing wrong. I never disciplined my dog on her walk. She's tiny (a Shih-Tzu). She walks with a harness, walks ahead of me, sniffs at every blade of grass, bolts out the door to get a head start, doesn't "heel". And I allow this. She also "tells" me when she wants to do some things in her little routine around the house. She actually comes to get me and pesters me until I do what she wants.

Oh dear, I guess it's too late for Harriet or myself to become dog-walking experts.

She is quite a happy little dog though. But my little 20 pound dog is the ruler, or so she thinks.

 

[Bina]

I speak from experience......there aren't enough hours in the day to "walk" a young chocolate Lab into tiredness.
They need running, jumping, rolling and wrestling....best done in big open spaces.
The leash walk is the cooling down time before going to bed.

 

[Susan BAV]

Interesting article, AL. And I love the name of your little dog, Nancy.

 

[Nancy]

"And I love the name of your little dog, Nancy."

Joe got this little dog right after his third heart surgery. She is named for his heart surgeon whose first name is Harry. Not sure if Harry knows that or not.

 

[Superbob]

Interesting article, Al. I must say, though, I violate most of these "rules" and I disagree with some of them. Put a backpack on sweet ol' Sadie? Would never do it. Also when we're out walking in the woods, I just let her pee where she feels like peeing. So I'm not much of a "leader."

Just call me a dog-walking anarchist. Sometimes I lead, sometimes she leads. As Sinatra crooned, we do it our way. Been walking dogs this way for more than 50 years, not about to change now. It's worked pretty well for the dogs and for me. I guess someone always has a better way for us to go about our daily business. Just hope we don't get a Government Bureau of Dog Walking. Guess I am kind of a libertarian.

Interesting article to read, though. Thanks for posting.

 

[ALCapshaw2]

I read the article about walking your dog, and discovered that I have done every single thing wrong. I never disciplined my dog on her walk. She's tiny (a Shih-Tzu). She walks with a harness, walks ahead of me, sniffs at every blade of grass, bolts out the door to get a head start, doesn't "heel". And I allow this. She also "tells" me when she wants to do some things in her little routine around the house. She actually comes to get me and pesters me until I do what she wants.

Oh dear, I guess it's too late for Harriet or myself to become dog-walking experts.

She is quite a happy little dog though. But my little 20 pound dog is the ruler, or so she thinks.

I have to confess, I've let my dogs walk me over the years also. I'm not a fan of 'authoritarian' training methods but confess that it does seem to work. It takes longer to get them to 'behave' with the "Love 'em and Let 'em be free" approach. I'm more of a believer in the philosophy of "A Free Dog is a Happy Dog" and enjoy seeing them 'play'.

OTOH, it would be nice if they obeyed the STOP or SIT command when they get near the road. My American Eskimo Mix is much more responsive to Verbal commands indoors than out. She's getting better now that she is out of puppyhood!

 

[Superbob]

I speak from experience......there aren't enough hours in the day to "walk" a young chocolate Lab into tiredness.
They need running, jumping, rolling and wrestling....best done in big open spaces.
The leash walk is the cooling down time before going to bed.

My 6 months of experience confirms your years of chocolate lab experience, Bina. I can still throw a ball pretty well for an old man, but that's about it. Hopefully, Daisy will get a home where she can play herself into tired happiness with all kinds of antics.